BPI Weaver Weatherization Facebook2 pintrest YouTube-icon-full_color Client Portal

Blog

Our goal is to be able to educate our customers to make better informed decisions on their greatest asset your home.

By weaverweath16659627, Jun 18 2015 06:57PM

Should You Upgrade to a High Efficient Furnace


If your old furnace just completely stop working and you need a replacement now. Yes 90+ furnace are the way to go. This blog may still help you. If you are wanting to upgrade sometime in the future and doing your homework to make sure you are making the right decision. Read the rest of this blog. Ok, you want to save money, you want less carbon foot print. There are many reasons to upgrade. If you have 80 percent efficient furnace and going to 90 percent plus most times you can see 30 percent savings in heating cost.


Master Plan


I would suggest to get what we like to call a master plan together. This is where you figure out how many BTU’s your building needs to stay warm in the winter. This is especially helpful in an older building. Then install more insulation throughout to lower the BTU’s required to heat the building. This benefits you in 2 ways. Your house is way more comfortable and you can reduce your needed furnace size dramatically most times. Smaller size furnace uses less energy and less cost to install smaller unit. If you create a master plan most time you will see 50 to 60 percent saves in heating cost each year.


Oil vs Propane Gas vs Electric vs Natural Gas


US Energy Information Administration average for Northeast region for heating oil is $2526 Propane $2386 Electric $1315 Natural Gas $1024. When you go to upgrade research the fuel sources available for your location. If you need help find a reputable heating contractor feel free to give us a call.


P.S. If this was helpful share this article with friends and family. They might find this information helpful as well.


Gas boiler
Gas boiler
High efficient boiler
High efficient boiler

By weaverweath16659627, Jun 1 2015 08:16PM

Every month we receive a electric bill. I have done hundreds of energy audits and few understand why their bill one month is $100 and the next $200. The electric company charges by KWH. There is 1000 watts in 1 KW. So here is the formula to figure out how much each electric device cost you each month. Appliance wattage X hours use each month / 1000 X 12.37 cent (.1237)= cost per month


Here are some common usages and cost


Shower with 2.5 Gallons a minutes water flow cost 5 cents a minute (10 minute shower is 50 cents)


Shower example: A family of 5 showering once a day for 15 minutes is 75 minutes a day. 75 minutes X .05= $3.75 a day. Monthly cost would be $3.75 X 30 days = $112.5


If you cut your showers to 7 minutes each that would 5 people X 7 Minutes a shower = 35 minutes for the day. 35 X.05 = 1.75 a day times 30 minutes = $52.5 a month. You can see by the 2 examples the 2nd example you save 59.5 a month by cutting each shower by 8 minutes. This is a saving of $714 a year. The water savings a years is 36500 Gallons. This little change each day ads up to big savings.


Energy Star refrigerator cost you $11.82 a month


Compact Fluorescent bulb 25 watts for 1 hour a day cost you 10 cents a month


Television LCD 32" 6 hours a day would 180 hours a month cost you 3.63 a month


Dryer 15 hours a month cost you 10.75





Understand Electricity Usage and Cost
Understand Electricity Usage and Cost
Understand Electricity Usage and Cost 2
Understand Electricity Usage and Cost 2

By weaverweath16659627, May 21 2015 04:56PM


Higher insulation R values do not tell the whole story

Insulation resists heat movement through the insulation material. R-value measures the resists through the insulation (called the conductive heat flow). All the R values for different insulation is conducted through testing in a lab not real world conditions. The lab testing does not take into account how well the material stops heat movement from convection, carried in the air. Air leakage can cause up to half of your home’s energy loss.


Important Factors for Air Sealing

R-values do not measure air flow through a material. The most popular insulation in the U.S. is fiberglass insulation. Since there is air gaps along ceiling joist and many other building cavities that fiberglass do not air seal. The effectiveness is greatly reduce in the fiberglass or cellulose insulation without the proper air seal. Until recently building codes did not require the proper air sealing. With proper air seal fiberglass and cellulose become a much better insulation. With spray foam insulation you get total air seal and high R values. If you want a better quality insulation call us for air sealing options.


'


Health and Safety Reason for Air Sealing

When your house has 50 percent or higher relativity humidity in the heated area. This becomes a problem with no air seal in the attic. The hot moisture air leaking into your attic space can cause large scale or spot condensation. Signs of condensation on roof would be water marks, rusty nails, mildew, or mold. Adding more ventilation is the wrong thing to do. You just cause more leakage from the house (stack effect) into the attic. More house air means more moisture which will bring on more condensation. Stop this issue with proper air seal. You will save a lot of money and your building with the proper air seal.



P.S. We specialize in retrofit insulation. If you want a contractor that cares and spend the time to get it right the first time call us. 717-450-3286




By guest, Jan 19 2015 08:08PM

Each house has many working parts which when you effect one aspect many times this will have negative or positive effects on other areas of the house. If you would have unexpected water in the basement many times the house will have mold in the basement but could have mold in the attic eventually. These 2 areas do not seem connected but are they? If you insulate your basement walls the whole house feels warmer. How could that be? Houses are a system and should be treated that way when you insulate or air seal the house to cut down on energy or comfort issues. If contractors do not understand that a house is a system. Contractors can do more harm then good.

A house we recently inspected had relative humidity of 50% or greater, has a lot of leakage to the attic. The person living in this house wanted more insulation. So they call the first contractor they see that does insulation. This contractor insulates without air sealing. This can be a problem since now there is no more heat loss and the roof deck is 20 degrees colder then it use to be. Now all the moisturefrom the house leaks into the attic. The house was 50% relative humidity not has a chance to condense since warmer air and cold surfaces with high relative humidity form perfect conditions to condensate. This is one of many exsample of a contractor causing more issues then they are solving. A much better way would be to air seal all leakage in the attic when you want to insulate. You will have much better performing insulation and peace of mind that the chances of condensation is low.


P.S If you want to insulate your house and keep it simple contact us 717-450-3286 We do it right the first time!

RSS Feed

Web feed